How to Fix Brassy Hair Color

We've all been there. A client walks in and the color that looked perfect and beautiful when your she left the salon has now turned into a brassy shade that should only be found in a tequila sunrise. Was it you? Was it her? More likely a combination of both your actions, but say bye-bye to brass because I'm here to share some must-have tips and some top things to avoid to keep your client's hair color looking perfect from service to service.
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Get the Blues

Copyright Elaine Reid Photography

Most of us know that the way to combat warmth in hair is to counteract it with a cool tone. This most often takes the form of a gloss or toner that is applied after the hair has been lightened. But what happens when your client leaves the salon and that toner gradually fades out?

Recommend a blue or purple shampoo that is specifically catered to blonde hair. Explain that this product will help maintain the tone and brilliance of the hair color that they just invested time and money on. Often times clients don't realize their responsibility in maintaining their hair color at home, so it helps to explain the importance of this to them.

Below you'll find my top picks in blonde hair color aftercare.

  • Blondshell by Keratin Complex
  • Bleach Blondes Shampoo by Lee Stafford
  • Sterling Silver Toning Shampoo by AG
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Shady Lady

The sun can be a major culprit when it comes to brassy hair. Recommend your client wears a hat at the beach or recommend a hair product that has sunscreens. Some top picks are,

  • Soleil by Kerastase (this product also protects from the effects of chlorine)
  • Olio di Jasmine Shine Spray by Oscar Blandi
  • Phytoplage Protective Beach Spray by Phytologie

Check out Best Summer Hair Products for more recommendations.

Chlorine and saltwater also like to reek havoc on blonde hair. Recommend that your client take the necessary steps to protect themselves from these elements. Slathering damp hair in conditioner before putting on a swim cap is the best protection against the lovely green hue that chlorine likes to leave behind

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Put a Lid on It.

A very simple way to protect your client's hair color is to recommend that they install a water filter in their shower head. This is an inexpensive option that will cut down on the chlorine and iron deposits in the water which will eventually turn the hair brassy. Diminishing these elements in the water that comes in contact with our bodies every day is probably a healthy option regardless if you color your hair or not.

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Kool it Down

Let's say your client calls you in a panic and they need to tone down the brass in their hair, fast. Maybe they have an event or they're on vacation and they want to look their best. Of course there isn't a beauty supply store in site and they can't get to you to fix it.

Problem solved with this simple trick - Tell your client to pick up a packet of blue Kool-Aid and mix a small amount into a handfull of conditioner until it turns blue. Apply it to damp hair, let it sit for a few minutes, and voila! Brassiness is toned down and you've just saved the day.

Note of caution: If you're client has platinum blonde or extremely porous hair, the Kool-Aid trick probably isn't the best option for them. The porosity in the hair could cause it to grab onto the blue too much, and then you'll have a much bigger problem on your hands.